Andrew Sullivan TIMES OF LONDON
When Andrew Sullivan left Britain for America it was a dreary, divided land. On his return he finds political turmoil – yet a nation at peace with itself
What should they know of England who only England know? That was Rudyard Kipling’s question in a famous piece of breezy, patriotic poetry, as he called upon the “winds of the world” to celebrate the triumph of Britishness across the globe. Of course, those who have known only England can know her pretty well, as another great Victorian, GK Chesterton, observed — “travel narrows the mind” — but a bit of perspective can sometimes help. Mine, perhaps, is a particularly strange one: a life lived in England for 21 continuous years and then one in America for a continuous 26.
By a quirk of fate — my HIV status severely restricted my travel under a retrograde 1980s US law now mercifully repealed — my visits home were rare, brief and often anxious. The last was five years ago. But this time, green card finally in hand, I allow myself the time to remain; and rest; and unhurriedly watch and listen to the country I once called home.
I have a blur of impressions, mixed with the odd feeling of being in a movie in which you are fast-forwarded a quarter-century and everyone suddenly ages. Those with brown hair now have white; your old garden has been sold to make room for another house; the nephew I always tended to think of as a toddler is now my height; a new nephew, the spitting image of my brother at four, is now glancing up under a haze of eyelashes to reassure the strange man with the enormous beard: “I know you’re my uncle.”
The stops on the train journey from my Sussex home to London are exactly the same, almost a long-forgotten mantra of Englishness to me: Hurst Green, Oxted, Woldingham, Upper Warlingham, Riddlesdown, Sanderstead ... The names reassure. And after you’ve lived in America, the sheer depth of each tiny stop, the generations that have lived there or near there for centuries, the overwhelming sense of real place you feel is something I once took easily for granted. Now it has the shock of the old, a sudden remembrance that this little island really does have an identity, a character.
And what is that character? The longer I have been away, the clearer it has become. It is prosaic and pragmatic; comfy and yet rude; resigned, yet not in any way depressed. I left at the crux of the Thatcher struggle, after teen years in the dreary dreadfulness of the 1970s, when this country truly was at war with itself, when the ideological divide was profound, when north was pitted against south and when “society”, far from being “big”, was rumoured to be nonexistent. I come back for a roaring, very British scandal and a culture far calmer, a divide far narrower and an identity much more settled. Everything is different and yet everything is also very much the same. Everyone is grumbling, but, if you will forgive a generalisation based purely on personal impressions, it seems a country that still makes sense; that has come to terms with itself; a country that, unlike my new home, America, is not in the midst of a cold civil war.
My friend the American columnist David Brooks put it this way recently: “Usually when I travel from Washington to Britain I move from less gloom to more gloom. But this time the mood is reversed. The British political system is basically functional while the American system is not.” The past few weeks may not seem exactly that to many Brits, but I couldn’t agree more.
The notion that England could change out of all recognition and yet remain the same never rang so true Take the prime minister, a man only vaguely known in America and one individual I did not meet along the way at Oxford. As I left Britain, the middle-class revolution was in full swing. In the Tory party, first Ted Heath and then Margaret Thatcher had ushered in what seemed to be a new era of petit bourgeois strivers, capped off by the very non-Oxford, nonEstablishment (and highly underrated) John Major. Who do I see in the Commons now? A slightly chubby, ruddy-faced Old Etonian, an almost Platonic ideal of a Tory prime minister.
Part Macmillan, part Baldwin, he confuses at first. Can a member of the Bullingdon club really still be running the country? I search to recognise the accent, something I had learnt to recognise almost instantly in order to recoil and retreat.
But I can’t quite place it. It’s got lost somewhere in the middle of the country, somewhere such as, say, Chipping Norton, a blend of easy entitlement and learnt engagement with the masses. And what, one wonders, could be more quintessentially Tory than that?
The scandal he was blundering through was like the Profumo affair without the sex. It’s all really light corruption by global standards, the air-kissing sleaze of too-cosy dinner parties and old friends, of coppers on the soft take, in pursuit of the old naughty-vicars-type gossip in the tabloids (only now they’re footballers) and a competitive press all eager to bring rivals down. Not exactly Watergate, I’m sorry to inform you. Or Abu Ghraib.
Once upon a time, the News of the World may actually have shocked people. Now, the English are forced to manufacture the shock on a Sunday morning to titillate themselves with nothing but prurience. Even the skulduggery has gone out of it. There’s nothing clever or naughty or admirably devious about hacking a phone to find out the intimate details of someone’s personal life. It’s too easy. But if the methods had changed, that old English instinct — the desire to take uppity people down — is the same. Except it’s not even uppity or successful people now; all you have to do to stir the envy of the masses is to appear for five minutes on a reality show.
In the end, it seemed to me that the scandal was yet another sign that the old Establishment was not just still running things but was resurgent. For what was this scandal about in the end but the toppling of the foreign interloper, the dirty digger, the man who in front of a parliamentary committee had brought up the subject of Gallipoli — yes, Gallipoli! — as a resentment that still stung?
Just to make me feel suddenly swept back a generation, I pick up Private Eye to wallow in a thoroughly fantastic orgy of nostalgia and gloat. Now there’s an institution that has not changed one iota. Yes! That photo of Andrew Neil in a vest! Yes! A Sylvie Krin romance novel — but now not about Charles and Diana but Wendi and “Lupert”. From Monty Python’s Asian version of Erizabeth L to ninja wife Wendi Deng yelling: “Shurrup, Lupert, and risten!” And has anyone noticed the remarkable similarity between Rebekah Brooks and King James II? Oh joy.
This was another turn of the English wheel, as one cliquish Establishment circles and replaces another: at once recognisable and then oddly not. I mean, who is this beautiful blonde carefully dismembering a vanguard of the right-wing press on a parliamentary committee? Oh, it’s Louise Mensch — a Conservative MP. The mind reels. Really?
And then you see the quiet social revolution begun by Tony Blair and cemented by Cameron. Politics is not merely about old white men any more. As Washington’s entire Congress includes three openly gay representatives, the Tories alone have 13 (if you’re not really counting). Soho, once a lovely, run-down redoubt of drunken, literate hacks, is now pulsating with gay muscles and foreign accents. The chairwoman of the Tories is a Muslim, an idea that would give John Boehner, Republican Speaker of the House of Representatives, a fit of the vapours.
I go to the East End for a dinner and arrive via a lift in what looks like a factory into a vast New York-style loft, to find it is the Shoreditch version of Soho House. Then, a sentence you never expect in Britain: “Of course, we have gluten-free options.” I suppose I should not register any great shock at all this. But much of it was as unthinkable a quarter-century ago as a giant ferris wheel towering over the Commons.
And yet I also see some of the same things as Orwell did. The ridiculously heavy currency; the garishness of street advertising; the terror, after America’s 55mph freeways, of being driven at breakneck speed down a winding country road (which looks more like a green tunnel carved from the surrounding trees). The gentleness of nature here. New England comes close, but the winters there create a hardiness in the landscape you don’t see much in England. Here there is delicacy amid the damp; ferns in copses; oak trees in meadows.
My father and sister can recognise the tiniest varieties of garden plants from a long distance; my brother will see a speck in the sky and instantly know what kind of bird it is. Most Americans don’t really know flowers or care. But to know England is to know gardening, which is an utterly different thing from ranching or landscaping.
Gardening, like Englishness, is about being home; it is about tending to things, not remaking them; it is about learning to bend with nature, not to master it; it is a function of a culture that knows what it is and is prepared to stop for a few minutes to enjoy it. My father still loves pottering about in his, as I remember his father carefully pruning his rose bushes. And in my middle age I suddenly found myself with the urge to garden as well. All those afternoons with Gardeners’ Question Time humming in the background on the radio had proved their worth.
And the tiny things. I’d forgotten how it is possible for a shower to last 40 seconds and cover only half a street. I’d forgotten that it is possible to be chilled in July. I am forced to remember that the proper response to “How are you?” is not “Fine” but “Not too bad” and “Can’t complain”. And the general low-level alcoholism of almost everyone is as recognisable today as ever, with a slight twist. You can see across a pub now and not be scanning through a fog of smoke. Hence what struck me as a new and lovely tradition: the spilling-out onto the pavement of nicotine-craving boozers, in an impromptu alcoholic happening.
My only gripe: the horrible new English way of saying “yeah?” at the end of a sentence, where an “eh?” would once have sufficed. And yes, I know about chavs. They were always with us, in one form or another.
Then there are the things you cannot quite believe are still around. Bruce Forsyth. Seriously? And the post-everything shallowness, dressed up as snark, of the drivel written by a Toby Young; or the pious, mind-deadening leftism of a Polly Toynbee. Like small balls of powder in a badly mixed custard, these old oddities still shock the palate.
Race is another obvious quiet English revolution. I remember as a young boy some mutterings among my Clapham grandparents about how many “coloureds” there were. I remember the Brixton riots. My era was of My Beautiful Laundrette and the Anti-Nazi League. And I know there has been a vast conversation about whether multiculturalism and Englishness are compatible. But in my everyday wanderings, it seemed obvious to me that Englishness had simply added a few colour wheels. Of course, I’m talking only of London. But I felt no racial tension here — nothing like what was palpable in New York and Washington only a decade ago.
My sister dragged me to the Primark in Oxford Street and I was immediately hurled into what felt like a deafening, soul-crushing, overcrowded Arab souk with fluorescent lighting. But as your pupils adjusted to the banishment of all darkness, you realised they were all looking for bargains; and their overheard conversations, if I closed my eyes, struck me as instantly recognisable. Yep: that famous English cheapness. Still here. But in a burqa. The notion that England could change out of all recognition and yet remain the same — Orwell’s memorable expression — never rang so true.
And there does seem to me to be a national conversation in a way there sadly isn’t in the US. Various institutions, such as the BBC, ensure it. Nothing in America has the clout or audience of the Today programme, for example. There are no cities with the vibrant, clashing newspapers of London. I begin to see why blogging — endemic in the US — has not been so successful here. The BBC provides the news ballast and the papers add the competitive bias. The crucial niche carved by blogs in the US — the personal writing, the strong opinions — is already occupied here. It’s called the press. And for all its obvious faults, the Beeb remains a cohering cultural presence, like the West End theatre. Not so long ago, I would have been all for abolishing it. Not any more. It adds to Britain’s cultural continuity, and if you have ever been subjected to the screeching, ugly propaganda of Fox News, or the smothering smugness of its liberal rival, MSNBC, you’ll appreciate it some more.
What’s gone, of course, is the C of E. Religion itself appears to have been wiped from the cultural map in Britain in ways unimaginable in faithful America. This, to my mind, is a tragedy, for a society without some relationship to the transcendent can become simply boorish and myopic. But, again, I see the merits of secularism more clearly now. It takes constant exposure to American fundamentalism to feel relieved by the prosaic dismissal of the spiritual by the English. And again, I wonder whether this has really, truly changed. Anglicanism, as it was founded by the first Queen Elizabeth, was always about the blurring of doctrinal difference, the aversion to looking into others’ souls, the modesty of a limited spiritual imagination epitomised by the Book of Common Prayer.
An old don of mine once remarked that he supported the Church of England as a bulwark against religion. He had a point. And, yes, I know evangelicalism is on the march in England. But take it from me: it has a huge, long way to go. And an occasional, real, vibrant debate about what is existentially true could add some colour to the shades of grey in England’s tepid spiritual conversation.
But the central crisis of my youth — that of English identity — seems to me to have resolved itself. No one but a Simon Heffer even faintly has nostalgia for global power any more, let alone empire. The whole question of Europe has palpably calmed — lulled by the very English compromise of being in the EU but not truly of it. Thatcher was right about the euro, wasn’t she?
And what’s left feels like someone emerging from midlife crisis into a rather comfortable second wind, one in which illusions of grandeur have morphed into the modest pride of simply being who you are. For most of you, I imagine this cultural settlement is background white noise by now. To me, it’s deafening. After losing an empire, England has finally found a role: just being England.
As I wandered again through the Sussex woodlands I retreated to in my boyhood, and imagined the bluebells sweeping like a lush carpet under the freshness of the new spring green, that felt good enough to me. More than good enough. The Great in Britain remains — right in front of you. Sometimes it just takes a little time and distance to recognise it.